r-Retinoate:
Our Most Advanced Vitamin A Molecule - Explained
Vitamin A has long been hailed as the ultimate hero among anti-ageing skincare ingredients. Renowned for its ability to stimulate collagen production and skin cell regeneration, it’s a cult-favourite among dermatologists and skincare experts across the globe. In visible terms, vitamin A helps to resurface the complexion, smoothing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, unifying uneven texture, brightening the look of hyperpigmentation and decongesting the complexion. Sounds great, right?
THE CHALLENGE
However, despite its many proven benefits, vitamin A is not without its challenges. For decades, skincare researchers have been trying to overcome the common side effects (such as redness and irritation), and lack of stability (effectiveness) in sunlight. That was until Medik8 overcame every one of these challenges, redefining the accepted rules of vitamin A.
THE SOLUTION
Following 8 years of painstaking research and development, in 2016 we introduced a true breakthrough ingredient within vitamin A technology; encapsulated retinyl retinoate - the hero of the r-Retinoate collection. This pioneering super molecule, which is patented and exclusive to Medik8, is expertly engineered by fusing retinol with retinoic acid. Its purpose? To outperform ordinary retinol in every way. And, indeed, it is proven to be 8x more powerful than classic retinol.[1] It is also photostable, meaning it can be used both day and night for enhanced visible results - a benefit that’s almost unheard of when it comes to vitamin A. And, as if that wasn’t enough, retinyl retinoate is also non-irritating, even on the most sensitive skins. This is because the carboxyl group within retinoic acid (the part responsible for the irritation) is blocked when fused together with retinol within this innovative super molecule. In short, this new molecule exhibits the very best of both vitamin A worlds - improving retinol results without side effects of retinoic acid.
But there’s more! Retinyl retinoate also boasts the added benefit of photoprotection, meaning it can help to protect our skin from the sun without losing its power. It absorbs in the UVA range, hence it is able to support our sunscreens in shielding the skin from harmful UVA rays.
But naturally, as Experts in Vitamin A, we didn’t just stop there. Although we knew that retinyl retinoate was photostable (and therefore not broken down by sunlight), we were conscious that it was not immune to air degradation. That’s where our stabilisation encapsulation technology came in. Here, retinyl retinoate is encapsulated within microspheres made of biodegradable polymer which improves both the potency and penetration of the age-defying active. Retinyl retinoate is so groundbreaking that it’s even been published in the highly-regarded British Journal of Dermatology and, to this day, the patented, encapsulated super molecule remains exclusive to Medik8 and the r-Retinoate collection.
THE REVOLUTIONARY R-RETINOATE RANGE
r-Retinoate Intense
This extraordinary night cream combines 3 powerful retinoids to deliver remarkable, age-defying results that were previously unattainable outside of professional clinics. Retinol and retinoic acid (retinyl retinoate) join forces with encapsulated retinaldehyde and our most advanced technologies for retinoid power that’s proven to be 8x more powerful[1] and 11x faster than classic retinol.[2]
The formula is then fortified with drone-targeted peptides to further support collagen production and a ceramide complex that’s expertly optimised to restore and nourish the skin barrier. r-Retinoate Intense is proven to improve the look of fine lines, firmness and uneven tone and texture in just 4 weeks[3] and is also clinically proven to deliver 24 hours of skin moisturisation.[4] It’s the most powerful age-defying formula we have ever made.
r-Retinoate Day & Night
Also starring retinyl retinoate, this multi-step serum is expertly engineered for day and night use, ensuring maximum visible results. Following its original launch in 2016, r-Retinoate Day & Night was reformulated last year to include our C-Tetra technology. The formula now combines vitamin A with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (a stabilised and gentle form of vitamin C) to deliver all of the proven benefits of retinyl retinoate alongside the potent antioxidant and skin-illuminating properties of vitamin C.
All this in one easy step. While we usually recommend vitamin C for use during the day, it can also be beneficial at night to help correct any damage that has occurred during the day. Likewise, although vitamin A is normally only suitable for use in the evening, it’s very effective during the day as it helps to block collagen-destroying MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases) which are triggered by UV light.
This powerful pairing of vitamin A and vitamin C means that fine lines and wrinkles appear to vanish with the overall complexion left flawlessly illuminated with a silken touch.
r-Retinoate Day & Night Eye Serum
This featherlight serum is the ultimate indulgence for delicate eyes and delivers profound visible results alongside a gentle experience. Harnessing all of the proven age-defying powers of retinyl retinoate, the formula is expertly optimised with caffeine and hesperidin for accelerated, targeted results that visibly fade the passage of time around the eyes. Just like the original r-Retinoate Day & Night for the face, r-Retinoate Day & Night Eye Serum can be used both morning and evening to dramatically fade the look of fine lines while visibly smoothing, brightening and de-puffing the eye area. The result? A visibly revitalised, more youthful-looking eye area.
What is the difference between r-Retinoate Day & Night and r-Retinoate Intense?
r-Retinoate Day & Night is our luxury, multi-step serum which features a revolutionary blend of retinyl retinoate with stabilised tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C). r-Retinoate Day & Night fulfils both the ‘C’ and ‘A’ elements of our pioneering CSA Philosophy in one simple step.
r-Retinoate Intense is an exclusive, world-first formula that combines crystal-encapsulated retinaldehyde with encapsulated retinyl retinoate for our most remarkable age-defying results, ever. Never before have these 2 powerful molecules joined forces. The breakthrough formula also features barrier-supporting ceramides, plumping hyaluronic acid and a drone-targeted copper peptide for superior visible results in an all-in-one night cream.
In terms of texture, r-Retinoate Day & Night is a lightweight serum-cream (designed to be used under a moisturiser) while r-Retinoate Intense is a nourishing night cream.
Yes, you can. You can layer r-Retinoate Intense on top of r-Retinoate Day & Night in the evening if you’re looking for the utmost vitamin A power possible. Alternatively, you can simply use r-Retinoate Day & Night during the day and r-Retinoate Intense in the evening.
r-Retinoate Day & Night is our luxury, multi-step serum which features a revolutionary blend of retinyl retinoate with stabilised tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (vitamin C). r-Retinoate Day & Night fulfils both the ‘C’ and ‘A’ elements of our pioneering CSA Philosophy in one simple step.
r-Retinoate Intense is an exclusive, world-first formula that combines crystal-encapsulated retinaldehyde with encapsulated retinyl retinoate for our most remarkable age-defying results, ever. Never before have these 2 powerful molecules joined forces. The breakthrough formula also features barrier-supporting ceramides, plumping hyaluronic acid and a drone-targeted copper peptide for superior visible results in an all-in-one night cream.
In terms of texture, r-Retinoate Day & Night is a lightweight serum-cream (designed to be used under a moisturiser) while r-Retinoate Intense is a nourishing night cream.
r-Retinoate Intense is a nourishing cream formula which contains lots of emollients to minimise the potential for irritation as well as 3 types of Time Release Technology; polymer-encapsulated retinyl retinoate, crystal-encapsulated retinaldehyde, and polymer reservoir technology. All three modes of Time Release technology work in unison to minimise the irritation potential as much as possible, which is why we are confident that even sensitive skin types will be able to introduce this product into their daily skincare routine without needing the phase it in.
Yes! While vitamin C is ideal for use in the morning for antioxidant protection throughout the day, it is also beneficial at night as it can help to correct any free radical damage that has occurred throughout the day. It also helps to boost collagen production and visibly brighten the complexion, both morning and evening.
The amount of vitamin C in r-Retinoate Day & Night is equivalent to that of our original C-Tetra serum and Daily Radiance Vitamin C.
For the best experience of using both retinyl retinoate and retinaldehyde together, we recommend using r-Retinoate Intense. This all-in-one night cream combines both vitamin A molecules with a drone-targeted peptide, hydrating hyaluronic acid and nourishing ceramides. If you want to use both products, we recommend using r-Retinoate Day & Night during the day followed by Crystal Retinal in the evening.
Vitamin A, including r-Retinoate Day & Night, is completely safe to use during the summer months or while on holiday - as long as you are applying a high protection sunscreen every day as well. If you are in direct sunlight, we recommend reapplying sunscreen every 2 hours. Vitamin A is actually able to block the production of pigment in the skin and is therefore very useful during the day, especially if you are concerned about pigmentation during sun exposure.
Yes. All of our direct acids can be layered with the r-Retinoate range. However, if any irritation occurs, we recommend reducing the frequency of direct acid usage. Having said this, the r-Retinoate range is very gentle (even on sensitive skins) and is therefore extremely unlikely to be the cause of irritation. Our bestselling direct acids, Press & Glow and Press & Clear, are also expertly formulated to be gentle on all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Unfortunately, as a cosmetic brand, we are unable to provide specific medical advice relating to our products. We would strongly advise speaking with your GP or midwife before using our products - especially those containing vitamin A. As general guidance, we would recommend avoiding the use of vitamin A and high-strength, leave-on acids during pregnancy or nursing. As r-Retinoate Day & Night contains retinyl retinoate, we do not recommend it for use during pregnancy.
By combining retinoic acid with retinol in one super molecule, we block the part of the retinoic acid that’s irritating to the skin (the carboxyl group).
Medik8 owns the exclusive rights to the use of patented ingredient retinyl retinoate in a cosmetic formula. Stabilised and encapsulated retinyl retinoate is only available at Medik8.
[1] H. Kim et al, Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative, Bioorg. Med. Chem., 2008, 16, pp 6387–6393
[2] G. Siegenthaler et al., Retinol and retinal metabolism, Biochemical Journal, 1990, 268, pp 371-378
[3] Proven via independent consumer study on r-Retinoate Intense on 52 participants over 4 weeks
[4] Proven via independent clinical study on r-Retinoate Intense on 40 participants after 1 use